How to bleed electric over hydraulic brakes

I am moving my axle pack, to get more of an optimum load on my ball hitch, so I need to disconnect the the main hydraulic line to the axle and replace it with a longer one to suit a better placement for the axles, in an optimum tongue weight for towing As it is I can lift the hitch with all my might, which I shouldn't on a 10K boat with a triple axle I was told to bleed the brake with the trailer electrical hooked up and pump the truck brakes as if it was it was the system that needed to be bled Just want to see if any other system would be better??

Kh

That is how I would go about it.
May need a relay person or a set of walkies to convey pedal up!, pedal down!

That is how I would go about it.
May need a relay person or a set of walkies to convey pedal up!, pedal down!

One other question. I would like to replace the small battery to a longer charge unit. can I use a car size battery or a deep cycle as a break lock up on my trailer ??

6 nipples would need some proper up & down.... eh, to bleed the bubbles out Farthest to closest, is what I was told. if corrected ??

One other question. I would like to replace the small battery to a longer charge unit. can I use a car size battery or a deep cycle as a break lock up on my trailer ??

You must have already looked at it to see if you can move the boat forward on the trailer right?? And that is why you have to move the axles.

I know from bleeding brakes that the furthest need to be bled first from my days as a first year mechanic & the reason I need to move my axle set further back from the trailer is, my ability to move the tongue jack, physically should not be possible, IMO
So setting the axles back would give me greater tongue weight, ya?

Look up using a vacuum bleeder, this is what mechanics use and I am sure it would facilitate your task.

Rule of thumb is always start furthest from the master and work your way up, Vacuum bleeders are inexpensive and so are the little 1 man bleeders, basically a 1 way valve attached to the nipple and drained into a bottle, I would use the electric brake controller to pump I think rather than the vehicle brakes, would probably get a little better/fuller action

If you have problems with finding that and your by yourself you can try and gravity bleed, drop your tongue to the ground and open the nipples one at a time and wait for a solid drip or flow of fluid, with the tongue on the ground the air will travel to the highest point and be pushed out thru hopefully the calipers or wheel cylinders whichever you have

Good info Hookin'up, where do you find those one way bleeder valves, they sound like it would make it a one man job.

One other question. I would like to replace the small battery to a longer charge unit. can I use a car size battery or a deep cycle as a break lock up on my trailer ??

You will probably need to add a charge wire. But seems like overkill when it's only used when you pull the emergency actuator.

I just put disc brakes on my trailer and used my mini vac pump to suck the air out and fluid . always start at the furthest wheel from the master and work forward.Another way is to get a piece of plastic tubing open a bleeder put the tubing on a open bleeder and then into a bottle with some brake fluid in it to cover the end of tubeing then go ahead and pump your brkes. Fluid in bottle will stop any air from being sucked back in to the system. Keep an eye on fluid level in the master. Hope this helps JDR

Will purchase a bleed vacuum was always into any system that can save manpower But the process I am going through will require a compete disconnect to the axle pack in an expended length of time, till disconnect & to reconnect. that may take a day in max time So bleeding will require a full system flush IMO I may use the truck electrical hook up as the last process, to bleed any mush in the lines... Kh

As for the larger battery as an emergency break lock up, I will opt to larger cells my small charge battery ( the size of 2 of my sell phones ) is not worth any gamble

Just had a brake shoe break apart and replaced the whole backing plate. Not a huge deal cause you get to inspect the bearing at the same time but it does require bleeding the system. Hartmans supplied a bleeder vacuum kit-45 dollars-but if you maintain your own trailer well worth the money and may save a marriage if your wife is the one operating the brakes while you bleed.

Poor mans bleed sys for a full flush and refill - drill and tap 1/8 or 1/4 npt into filler cap on reservoir. Just the smallest puff with an air hose will push the fluid thru to which ever bleeder you have open. Put a plug in the tapped hole once you are done. You may need to hold the master cyl in the open position